Natural Ingredients in New Cosmetics

Development trends in cosmetic products position cosmetics for people who lead an active and eventful life. Considerable physical and emotional pressure of this life style affects the state of skin, lips, eyelids, and hair. To maintain the healthful condition, to fight the wrinkles, dry and flabby skin, traditional cosmetics is not enough: more efficient products are required that are conventionally classed as middle-up group products.
The middle-up product price range borders on medicinal cosmetics. Considering their quality and efficiency, as well as the growing life level and improving culture of cosmetics use, these prices are well justified.
Such cosmetics would be impossible to manufacture without natural biologically active semi-products as their components. For quite a while, many manufacturers have used natural semi-products, standardized on the principal group of biologically active compounds (BACs): alkaloids, glycosides, and flavonoids.

In perspective, the use of up-to-date high-tech methods of BAC manufacturing will make it possible to offer the consumer semi-products of unique qualities, not only superior to the existing analogs, but also missing from the product range of other companies.
These are primarily the technologies that use the CO2 extraction process to isolate deep-fractions and to turn them into semi-products that ensure their technologically advanced application in cosmetics manufacturing with maximum functionality.

Currently, a whole range of natural components are marketed that are the result of CO2 fractional extraction. These are the fragrance fraction, the alcohol solutions of hydrophil compounds that are CO2-extracted from raw materials, and oil solutions of lipophil compounds. Chromatographic analysis demonstrates the fragrance fraction to contain the lightest groups of fragrant compounds, while the number of compounds is considerably higher than in volatile oils of the absolute steam-distilled class. The molecularly heavier fragrant compounds are retained in the alcohol-soluble and liposoluble fractions. Therefore, all fractions possess fragrant properties typical for the respective raw materials. The presence of a wide range of fragrant compounds in the CO2 extracts can be explained by the fact that CO2 extraction does not destroy or discharge their thermolabile compounds.

The problem of integrity and quality applies to propylenglycol extracts that are fairly widespread on our market, and to the butylenglycol ones almost absent from it. The manufacturers of these products have trouble with an extremely heavy microbiological contamination of the raw materials used for production (in violation of the GMP standard), they also have no adequate technologies to ensure microbiological purity while preserving biological activity. At present time, to reduce contamination, manufacturers either sacrifice the standards of their raw material at the input, or sterilize their semi-products. In the former case, the required biological performance proves impossible to achieve, while the latter method decomposes most active compounds due to high temperatures and comparatively long processing time. Although such products may satisfy the standards of solid residual level, microbiological purity, or acid number, their biologically active content is all but nonexistent.

The system of biologically active component selection must base upon the available standardized products, as well as on reference samples and accompanying documents of these products. At the same time, their solid residual factor is not so vital as the contents of their principal groups of functional compounds, mainly just decomposed and lost during the solid residual test.


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