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Natural Ingredients in New Cosmetics
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Development trends in cosmetic products position cosmetics for people who lead
an active and eventful life. Considerable physical and emotional pressure of this
life style affects the state of skin, lips, eyelids, and hair. To maintain the
healthful condition, to fight the wrinkles, dry and flabby skin, traditional cosmetics
is not enough: more efficient products are required that are conventionally classed
as middle-up group products.
The middle-up product price range borders on medicinal cosmetics. Considering
their quality and efficiency, as well as the growing life level and improving
culture of cosmetics use, these prices are well justified.
Such cosmetics would be impossible to manufacture without natural biologically
active semi-products as their components. For quite a while, many manufacturers
have used natural semi-products, standardized on the principal group of biologically
active compounds (BACs): alkaloids, glycosides, and flavonoids.
In perspective, the use of up-to-date high-tech methods of BAC manufacturing will
make it possible to offer the consumer semi-products of unique qualities, not
only superior to the existing analogs, but also missing from the product range
of other companies.
These are primarily the technologies that use the CO2 extraction process to isolate
deep-fractions and to turn them into semi-products that ensure their technologically
advanced application in cosmetics manufacturing with maximum functionality.
Currently, a whole range of natural components are marketed that are the result
of CO2 fractional extraction. These are the fragrance fraction, the alcohol solutions
of hydrophil compounds that are CO2-extracted from raw materials, and oil solutions
of lipophil compounds. Chromatographic analysis demonstrates the fragrance fraction
to contain the lightest groups of fragrant compounds, while the number of compounds
is considerably higher than in volatile oils of the absolute steam-distilled class.
The molecularly heavier fragrant compounds are retained in the alcohol-soluble
and liposoluble fractions. Therefore, all fractions possess fragrant properties
typical for the respective raw materials. The presence of a wide range of fragrant
compounds in the CO2 extracts can be explained by the fact that CO2 extraction
does not destroy or discharge their thermolabile compounds.
The problem of integrity and quality applies to propylenglycol extracts that are
fairly widespread on our market, and to the butylenglycol ones almost absent from
it. The manufacturers of these products have trouble with an extremely heavy microbiological
contamination of the raw materials used for production (in violation of the GMP
standard), they also have no adequate technologies to ensure microbiological purity
while preserving biological activity. At present time, to reduce contamination,
manufacturers either sacrifice the standards of their raw material at the input,
or sterilize their semi-products. In the former case, the required biological
performance proves impossible to achieve, while the latter method decomposes most
active compounds due to high temperatures and comparatively long processing time.
Although such products may satisfy the standards of solid residual level, microbiological
purity, or acid number, their biologically active content is all but nonexistent.
The system of biologically active component selection must base upon the available
standardized products, as well as on reference samples and accompanying documents
of these products. At the same time, their solid residual factor is not so vital
as the contents of their principal groups of functional compounds, mainly just
decomposed and lost during the solid residual test.
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