RECOMMENDATIONS ON USE OF CO2-EXTRACTS FOR COSMOCEUTICALS
Application of CO2-extracts when producing cosmetic products raises advantages
of the latter ones giving cosmetic bases various useful properties. Using CO2-extracts,
one can raise regenerating properties of a cream, form nutritious protective,
humidifying creams, eliminating vitamin insufficiency, lowering asteatosis state
of skin, can enrich the cream with biologically active substances, etc.
The hugest nature multi-variance of substances can be practically transferred
to a cosmetic product as a CO2-extract or a system of the extracts. Besides salutary
influencing skin of a person in little dosages, CO2-extracts provide for stability
of a cream in relation to oxidizing exposures, as well as regarding the action
of micro-organisms.
The lipophilia of CO2-extracts ensure a good action on skin, deep penetration
into hypodermic capillaries at a molecular level.
As the components giving creams the all above listed properties, it is recommended
to use the following CO2-extracts, in per cent ratios
to the total mass indicated below:
| barley sprouts |
0.03 - 0.07% |
| wheaten bran |
0.1 - 0.3% |
| wild camomile |
0.1 - 0.2% |
| seeds of carrots |
0.15 - 0.25% |
| yeasty residuums of grape wines |
0.5 - 1.2% |
| coniferous boughs of Siberian fir |
0.1- 0.3% |
| sea-buckthorn berries |
0.2 - 1.5% |
| seeds of grapes |
1.5 - 3% |
| coniferous boughs of Caucasian fir |
0.1- 3% |
| dioecious nettle |
up to 0.3% |
| milfoil |
0.02 - 0.3% |
| extracts of pomegranates |
0.1 - 1.0% |
| mint |
0.04 - 0.05% |
| hop |
0.01 - 0.06% |
| fennel |
0.04 - 0.20% |
| parsley |
0.025 - 0.1% |
| bur-marigold |
0.05 - 0.5% |
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It is recommended that CO2-extracts of barley sprouts, wheaten
bran and wild camomile to be introduced together, adding them to the
base mass, carefully mixing at the temperature 45 - 5°Ñ, then one should continue
cooling of the cream down to the temperature 30 + 5°Ñ and remain the paste to
hold for 24 hours.
The complex of these CO2-extracts provides a cream the nutrition action for any
skin of face and neck, eliminates vitamin insufficiency, raises regenerating properties
of skin.
CO2-extracts of yeasty residuums of wines are recommended to be brought
to the total cream mass together with a water-spirit-glycerine extract of propolis
and with a scent at the temperature 30°C, carefully mixing the paste within 30
minutes. Then the cream is cooled down to 20 - 25°C while continuously mixing
and left for 12 hours to hold.
CO2-extracts of yeasty residuums of wines improve metabolic processes of skin,
accelerate epithelization of wounded places, and promote skin regeneration.
CO2-extracts of coniferous boughs of Siberian fir are recommended to be
added to the total mass of a cream at the temperature 70 - 80°C, together with
triethanolamine and spirit, pouring all in by a thin stream while constantly operating
anchor mixer. After the all above components are introduced, emulsification for
30 minutes until forming a stable emulsion is to be done.
Then the mass of cream is being cooled gradually down to 30° C and constantly
mixed. After it, the cream is left to hold within 3 - 12 hours.
CO2-extracts of coniferous boughs of Caucasian fir are biologically active
substances. The cream made using a CO2-extract of fir coniferous boughs, stimulates
fermental activity of skin, has anti-inflammatory effect and reduces permeability
of skin vessels.
One can use a CO2-extract of coniferous boughs of Caucasian fir in cosmetic products
instead of CO2-extracts of coniferous boughs of Siberian fir. When manufacturing
creams with biologically active properties,
CO2-extracts of Caucasian fir are introduced similar to CO2-extracts of Siberian
fir.
CO2-extracts of Caucasian fir contain ether oil, bornylacetate as a basic component.
Vitamins E and C show antibacterial properties, especially regarding staphylococcus.
CO2-extracts of sea-buckthorn berries are recommended to be added to the
total mass of a cream at the temperature 75 - 80°Ñ together with olive oil and
other components, while constantly operating mixer. The paste is to be mixed for
30 minutes until forming a stable emulsion, then cooled down to the temperature
28 - 30°C and left for maturing within 3 - 6 hours. A cream made using CO2-extracts
of sea-buckthorn berries, has anti-inflammatory effect, increases permeability
of skin vessels, prevents skin peeling, and is free of irritative and allergenic
action.
It is recommended to add CO2-extracts of grape seeds to the total mass
of a cream together with perfumery oil in the end, while constantly working mixer.
The mass (paste) is to be mixed within 30 minutes, until forming a stable emulsion.
The heated paste is to be cooled and passed to the packaging at once. The cream
made using a CO2-extract of grape seeds with highly active substances has tonic
and hydrotant properties that allow protecting skin against premature withering
and allow saving elasticity of skin, promote favourable metabolism. The integrated
CO2-extracts are of a special interest for development of cosmetic products. These
extracts distinguish from simple mixtures of extracts by the fact that several
kinds of vegetative raw materials are extracted simultaneously in a specially
selected ratio, forming complex and at the same time purposeful systems (blends).
The matter is that alignment, balancing of the composition and its forming during
extraction occur at a molecular level. As a result, a synergistically compatible
and balanced product containing aromatic, biologically active, pharmacological
and other valuable components is received.
Their application facilitates the work of cosmeticians on creation of wide range
of
purposeful action biocosmetic products, as well as makes it easier to search biologically
active additives of a wide spectrum, and in the same
time, task-oriented for various types of skin and for separate sections of a body.
We offer several versions of integrated CO2-extracts. The fillings rates are given
in percentage of the total mass:
A system of extracts for a biocream for fat skin: 0.1 - 1.5%
CO2-extract of parsley seeds
CO2-extract of grape seeds
CO2-extract of pomegranate marcs
It has biogenic-stimulus properties, improves exchange processes, accelerates
epithelization, adjusts fatty exchange of epithelium cells, and gives antispasmodic
and bactericidal effect.
Integrated CO2-extract ¹7: 0.1 - 1.0%
calamus
bur-marigold
hop
It gives biostimulation, bactericidal effect, vitaminizes skin.
Integrated CO2-extract ¹11: 0.07 - 0.2%
hop
milfoil
red capsicum pepper
Anti-inflammatory, antiseptic, bactericidal, bleaching effect, local-irritating
effect causing blood rush; limits discharge of sebaceous glands; intensifies metabolism,
raises skin tonus.
CO2-extract ¹6 for a blend: 0.05 - 0.2%
waste products of lavender
camomile
parsley
Bleaching effect.
CO2-extract ¹9 for a blend: 0.06 - 0.15%
grape seeds
waste products (marcs) of pomegranates
seeds of fennel
seeds of parsley
Bleaching, anti-inflammatory, tonic, regenerating effects and bactericidal action.
For hand skin
Integrated CO2-extract ¹4: 0.1 - 0.6%
milfoil
hop
fennel seeds
Antiallergic, antipruritic, soothing action.
Smoothes fine wrinkles, promotes formation of new cells. Tonic, antiseptic and
anti-inflammatory effect.
Makes skin of hands smooth.
For leg and feet skin
Integrated CO2-extract ¹2:
medicinal sage
carnation
seeds of carrots
Anti-inflammatory, styptic, disinfectant and antiseptic, plasticizing, softening
effect.
For any skin
Integrated CO2-extract ¹1: 0.04 - 0.2%
wild camomile
nettle
mint
Regenerating, antiallergic action with stimulating, freshening, calming effect.
It is effective when reddening skin.
General recommendations on use of CO2-extracts being bioadditives
in cosmetic products by age groups of consumers
Suckling and younger children
As skin of a child is very soft and easy vulnerable, dirt and moisture are quickly
accumulated in natural folds that results in intertrigos. On the other hand, skin
of a child is so rich with blood capillaries that an increased ability for absorption
and macerations through skin is shown. If one takes as a unit the dosage of bioadditives
for a person from 25 to 40 years old, then for children under three years old
it is equal to1/8 - 1/12.
Infantile cosmetics practically use anti-inflammatory, antibacterial, antiallergic
and drying remedies only.
Children from seven to fourteen years old
Dosages of the bioadditives are approximately equal to 1/2.
Persons from fourteen to twenty five years old
The dosages are to be increased up to 2/3.
One should especially note teenage as during this period teenagers
watch changes of their appearance closely and are supersensitive to any defects
and inflammations. The teenagers try interfering with them and instead bringing
an infection. And integuments at this age are especially sensitive to any infection
in view of metabolism imbalance, because host defences of an organism are weak.
That's why in this period the following are especially necessary: additional nutrition
of skin with vitamins and sedatives containing anti-inflammatory, antiallergic,
bactericidal and bacteriostatic components.
Mature age (from twenty five to forty years old)
Refilling of bioadditives is assumed to be equal to a unit.
Biocosmetics is only used preventively. Vitamin additives and bactericidal substances
are introduced.
Over forty years old
Ageing of skin is an individual process, so additives amount sometimes can be
reduced, but more often it can be increased up to 1.5 times. Devastation of intercellular
spaces results in flabbiness of skin and nutrition disorder due to sclerosis changes
in capillaries; connective tissue lose its elasticity.
At this age addition of such bioactive substances as vitamins,
hormones, trace elements, pharmacologically active substances
(anti-inflammatory, antiallergic, bactericidal, etc.) is important.
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