Skin-care

RECOMMENDATIONS ON USE OF CO2-EXTRACTS FOR COSMOCEUTICALS

Application of CO2-extracts when producing cosmetic products raises advantages of the latter ones giving cosmetic bases various useful properties. Using CO2-extracts, one can raise regenerating properties of a cream, form nutritious protective, humidifying creams, eliminating vitamin insufficiency, lowering asteatosis state of skin, can enrich the cream with biologically active substances, etc.

The hugest nature multi-variance of substances can be practically transferred to a cosmetic product as a CO2-extract or a system of the extracts. Besides salutary influencing skin of a person in little dosages, CO2-extracts provide for stability of a cream in relation to oxidizing exposures, as well as regarding the action of micro-organisms.

The lipophilia of CO2-extracts ensure a good action on skin, deep penetration into hypodermic capillaries at a molecular level.

As the components giving creams the all above listed properties, it is recommended to use the following CO2-extracts, in per cent ratios
to the total mass indicated below:

barley sprouts 0.03 - 0.07%
wheaten bran 0.1 - 0.3%
wild camomile 0.1 - 0.2%
seeds of carrots 0.15 - 0.25%
yeasty residuums of grape wines 0.5 - 1.2%
coniferous boughs of Siberian fir 0.1- 0.3%
sea-buckthorn berries 0.2 - 1.5%
seeds of grapes 1.5 - 3%
coniferous boughs of Caucasian fir 0.1- 3%
dioecious nettle up to 0.3%
milfoil 0.02 - 0.3%
extracts of pomegranates 0.1 - 1.0%
mint 0.04 - 0.05%
hop 0.01 - 0.06%
fennel 0.04 - 0.20%
parsley 0.025 - 0.1%
bur-marigold 0.05 - 0.5%

It is recommended that CO2-extracts of barley sprouts, wheaten bran and wild camomile to be introduced together, adding them to the base mass, carefully mixing at the temperature 45 - 5°С, then one should continue cooling of the cream down to the temperature 30 + 5°С and remain the paste to hold for 24 hours.
The complex of these CO2-extracts provides a cream the nutrition action for any skin of face and neck, eliminates vitamin insufficiency, raises regenerating properties of skin.
CO2-extracts of yeasty residuums of wines are recommended to be brought to the total cream mass together with a water-spirit-glycerine extract of propolis and with a scent at the temperature 30°C, carefully mixing the paste within 30 minutes. Then the cream is cooled down to 20 - 25°C while continuously mixing and left for 12 hours to hold.
CO2-extracts of yeasty residuums of wines improve metabolic processes of skin, accelerate epithelization of wounded places, and promote skin regeneration.
CO2-extracts of coniferous boughs of Siberian fir are recommended to be added to the total mass of a cream at the temperature 70 - 80°C, together with triethanolamine and spirit, pouring all in by a thin stream while constantly operating anchor mixer. After the all above components are introduced, emulsification for 30 minutes until forming a stable emulsion is to be done.
Then the mass of cream is being cooled gradually down to 30° C and constantly
mixed. After it, the cream is left to hold within 3 - 12 hours.
CO2-extracts of coniferous boughs of Caucasian fir are biologically active
substances. The cream made using a CO2-extract of fir coniferous boughs, stimulates fermental activity of skin, has anti-inflammatory effect and reduces permeability of skin vessels.
One can use a CO2-extract of coniferous boughs of Caucasian fir in cosmetic products instead of CO2-extracts of coniferous boughs of Siberian fir. When manufacturing creams with biologically active properties,
CO2-extracts of Caucasian fir are introduced similar to CO2-extracts of Siberian fir.

CO2-extracts of Caucasian fir contain ether oil, bornylacetate as a basic component. Vitamins E and C show antibacterial properties, especially regarding staphylococcus. CO2-extracts of sea-buckthorn berries are recommended to be added to the total mass of a cream at the temperature 75 - 80°С together with olive oil and other components, while constantly operating mixer. The paste is to be mixed for 30 minutes until forming a stable emulsion, then cooled down to the temperature 28 - 30°C and left for maturing within 3 - 6 hours. A cream made using CO2-extracts of sea-buckthorn berries, has anti-inflammatory effect, increases permeability of skin vessels, prevents skin peeling, and is free of irritative and allergenic action.
It is recommended to add CO2-extracts of grape seeds to the total mass of a cream together with perfumery oil in the end, while constantly working mixer. The mass (paste) is to be mixed within 30 minutes, until forming a stable emulsion. The heated paste is to be cooled and passed to the packaging at once. The cream made using a CO2-extract of grape seeds with highly active substances has tonic and hydrotant properties that allow protecting skin against premature withering and allow saving elasticity of skin, promote favourable metabolism. The integrated CO2-extracts are of a special interest for development of cosmetic products. These extracts distinguish from simple mixtures of extracts by the fact that several kinds of vegetative raw materials are extracted simultaneously in a specially selected ratio, forming complex and at the same time purposeful systems (blends). The matter is that alignment, balancing of the composition and its forming during extraction occur at a molecular level. As a result, a synergistically compatible and balanced product containing aromatic, biologically active, pharmacological and other valuable components is received.
Their application facilitates the work of cosmeticians on creation of wide range of
purposeful action biocosmetic products, as well as makes it easier to search biologically active additives of a wide spectrum, and in the same
time, task-oriented for various types of skin and for separate sections of a body. We offer several versions of integrated CO2-extracts. The fillings rates are given in percentage of the total mass:

A system of extracts for a biocream for fat skin: 0.1 - 1.5%
CO2-extract of parsley seeds
CO2-extract of grape seeds
CO2-extract of pomegranate marcs
It has biogenic-stimulus properties, improves exchange processes, accelerates epithelization, adjusts fatty exchange of epithelium cells, and gives antispasmodic and bactericidal effect.

Integrated CO2-extract №7: 0.1 - 1.0%
calamus
bur-marigold
hop
It gives biostimulation, bactericidal effect, vitaminizes skin.

Integrated CO2-extract №11: 0.07 - 0.2%
hop
milfoil
red capsicum pepper
Anti-inflammatory, antiseptic, bactericidal, bleaching effect, local-irritating effect causing blood rush; limits discharge of sebaceous glands; intensifies metabolism,
raises skin tonus.

CO2-extract №6 for a blend: 0.05 - 0.2%
waste products of lavender
camomile
parsley
Bleaching effect.

CO2-extract №9 for a blend: 0.06 - 0.15%
grape seeds
waste products (marcs) of pomegranates
seeds of fennel
seeds of parsley
Bleaching, anti-inflammatory, tonic, regenerating effects and bactericidal action.

For hand skin
Integrated CO2-extract №4: 0.1
- 0.6%
milfoil
hop
fennel seeds
Antiallergic, antipruritic, soothing action.
Smoothes fine wrinkles, promotes formation of new cells. Tonic, antiseptic and anti-inflammatory effect.
Makes skin of hands smooth.

For leg and feet skin
Integrated CO2-extract №2:

medicinal sage
carnation
seeds of carrots
Anti-inflammatory, styptic, disinfectant and antiseptic, plasticizing, softening effect.

For any skin
Integrated CO2-extract
№1: 0.04 - 0.2%
wild camomile
nettle
mint
Regenerating, antiallergic action with stimulating, freshening, calming effect.
It is effective when reddening skin.

General recommendations on use of CO2-extracts being bioadditives
in cosmetic products by age groups of consumers


Suckling and younger children
As skin of a child is very soft and easy vulnerable, dirt and moisture are quickly accumulated in natural folds that results in intertrigos. On the other hand, skin of a child is so rich with blood capillaries that an increased ability for absorption and macerations through skin is shown. If one takes as a unit the dosage of bioadditives for a person from 25 to 40 years old, then for children under three years old it is equal to1/8 - 1/12.
Infantile cosmetics practically use anti-inflammatory, antibacterial, antiallergic and drying remedies only.

Children from seven to fourteen years old
Dosages of the bioadditives are approximately equal to 1/2.

Persons from fourteen to twenty five years old
The dosages are to be increased up to 2/3.
One should especially note teenage as during this period teenagers
watch changes of their appearance closely and are supersensitive to any defects and inflammations. The teenagers try interfering with them and instead bringing an infection. And integuments at this age are especially sensitive to any infection in view of metabolism imbalance, because host defences of an organism are weak. That's why in this period the following are especially necessary: additional nutrition of skin with vitamins and sedatives containing anti-inflammatory, antiallergic, bactericidal and bacteriostatic components.

Mature age (from twenty five to forty years old)
Refilling of bioadditives is assumed to be equal to a unit.
Biocosmetics is only used preventively. Vitamin additives and bactericidal substances are introduced.

Over forty years old
Ageing of skin is an individual process, so additives amount sometimes can be
reduced, but more often it can be increased up to 1.5 times. Devastation of intercellular spaces results in flabbiness of skin and nutrition disorder due to sclerosis changes in capillaries; connective tissue lose its elasticity.
At this age addition of such bioactive substances as vitamins,
hormones, trace elements, pharmacologically active substances
(anti-inflammatory, antiallergic, bactericidal, etc.) is important.



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